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The wheat we grow, the atta your grandmother would recognise
Journal

On the farm

The wheat we grow, the atta your grandmother would recognise

By Mehran Yusuf30 May 2026 4 min read

Most 'chakki atta' in the market never saw a chakki. Ours is our own wheat, ground slow. The difference shows in the roti.

Ask anyone over sixty about roti and they will tell you, at length, that it used to taste different. They're not imagining it. What changed isn't the tandoor — it's what happens between the field and the flour bag.

Industrial mills run hot and fast. Speed heats the grain, and heat kills the wheat germ — the small, oily heart of the kernel where most of the flavour and nutrition lives. Big mills actually prefer it gone, because the oil in the germ is what makes flour spoil. Take it out and the bag sits happily in a warehouse for a year. Nutrition is bad for shelf life.

A stone chakki grinds slowly and stays cool, so the germ, bran, and oils all end up in your atta. The trade-off is honesty in reverse: our flour is best within two or three months, because it's still actually food. We mill in small batches from our own wheat crop — the same Rabi wheat you can see from the road in February, green as a carpet.

You'll notice the difference on the first day: the dough drinks more water, the kitchen smells faintly nutty, and the rotis stay soft in the hotpot instead of turning to cardboard. My grandmother judged flour by rubbing it between her fingers. Hers would pass. Most of what's sold as chakki atta today would not.

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